Corbett, India

CORBETT

Tiger Dekha?

That's the question everyone asks everyone they meet, strangers in the other vehicle, or the driver and guide. In front of me, it's always been a no. Seriously, has anyone seen a tiger in Corbett? Those who have are truly the chosen ones. This has been my third trip there and still no luck spotting the elusive beast. Guess that's the reason they're listed as endangered animals. Barely 160 of them loitering around a 1300 square kilometer reserve of which you get to travel not even a minute fraction. Good luck finding one. Unfortunately, during peak tourist season, you'll be hard pressed to see any animal. They're too busy avoiding the roar of the engines of the hundreds of Gypsys loaded to the max with loudly chattering people, unless you ambush them by stealth.

Our trip began on Holi day. Left Noida early around 7.30 am because we wanted to try and get to our destination before drunk revellers on bhang and God knows what else hit the roads. To our extreme good fortune it was the perfect day to travel. Holi being a major festival in north India, there was not a bus or truck on the highway and the very occasional car. Reached Moradabad in two hours flat and would have made it to Corbett in three and a half hours, but because of the bad roads before and a bit after Kashipur, we reached in a little under four hours. Our return took six hours, seven with a break for lunch.

Interesting road this. While most of it is four laned up to Moradabad, an ambitious attempt to build flyovers in a couple of small towns flanking the highway have met with setbacks. As a result, the flyovers start up, then end abruptly on top, turning them into ramps that could well be used for flugtag (a competition where home-made flying machines are launched off a pier into the water). Meanwhile, 85 percent of the road has been hogged up by the incomplete structures so on both sides cars have to negotiate all of 4 meters with bullock carts, cyclists, trucks, buses, tractors and pedestrians. You can imagine how smooth this makes the passage on a regular day.

The resort we stayed in was wonderful. Corbett Riverside, set on 21 acres of prime land right on the edge of the river Kosi, had huge lawns, blooming flowers and very well spaced out living areas with some huge rooms and suites. There's a vegetable patch with brinjal, mustard, cabbage, coriander and other vegetables and herbs and an orchard with mango, litchi and chikoo trees among others. Bliss for a country girl at heart like me! Well kept horses roam freely on the expansive lawns.


Outside our window. I've got my eye on you!

Langoors and monkeys shared the same space though usually langoors are used to chase away monkeys. Thankfully none of them came after us for our food. I have horrible memories of school days when vicious monkeys used to terrorise us. I loved my stay at Riverside even though we changed three rooms in four days due to last minute booking on an extremely busy weekend and a mix up on the reservation desk's part (they allotted the same room to two of us). The good part was, we got much better rooms than we paid for because of the goof up!


Chilling on Riverside lawns

Days were spent playing with the children in the mornings, splashing about in the pool, horse riding, lying around in the hammocks and playing badminton (after years I might add). We avoided the river this time. Otherwise, being dry season it could be crossed on foot. In  the evenings after our safaris (jeep and elephant), we would sit by the river drinking tea and eating pakoras and biscuits..one of my favourite times of the day. The staff were extremely helpful and accommodating on every aspect even though they were reeling under the load of almost 90 percent occupancy of extremely demanding guests.

The only weakness would be the restaurant. Since the resort was full, the dining staff just could not cope with the demand especially at breakfast. What with people on holiday, leaving their diet plans behind and just deciding to let go, the food always ran short and there were long waits to get replenishment. Also must say that some people have just no etiquette, manners or consideration. Vegetable cutlets being in high demand one breakfast, were coming out very slowly. After a wait of about 20 minutes, the waiter came out with about six or seven of them. One greedy idiot took the whole lot on his plate not caring that there were about 10 others waiting for a piece. Ah our fellow countrymen. Such sophistication and finesse. And then they waste. Plates and plates of finger chips..,also much sought after and denied to many.. were just left half eaten on the tables and abandoned.

Jackal

The jeep safari, which came complimentary with the hotel package, was quite interesting. As usual because we were so late with the bookings, all permits to the main Jim Corbett park were finished, so we were taken to the other side of the river through the Sitavani forest..it was a very pleasant day having rained the night before, so the open Gypsy, crisp, clean air, wind in our hair was lovely though we ended up frozen in our shorts. We saw deer, jackal, vultures, Siberian ducks, an eagle and other interesting birds. Sadly, no tiger. Our vehicle driver was quite the wit. Brutally honest, he told me to get the tiger out of my head and assured me I wasn't going to see one that day. We passed many other vehicles with tourists and since he knew all the drivers they would slow down or stop and have a chat. On one of these I asked him if those people had seen a tiger (I'm obsessed now). ``Dekhta to shakal mein shining hota. Inke mooh dekho, billi bhi nahin dekha''. These guys look upon us tourists as poor desperate suckers who'll drop any amount of money to spot the orange striper. Sigh, maybe someday....

The elephant safari also provided no luck. After two hours of bumping along through the river and forest, all we saw were two spotted deer, a turtle and carcasses of two cows (probably the closest I got to a tiger, not to mention the stuffed one at the gift shop). The mahout told us that we were his sixth trip that day and no luck for anyone. The ride was great fun and an exciting experience. Though I would advise people with motion sickness to take a pill before getting on because it is rough! Also, make sure you wear tough full length trousers or jeans because the branches and thorns will get to you. I have the scratch marks to prove it.

 








                                                                                                                                                            
One night we drove out more than 25 kilometers past the village of Mohan in the hopes of seeing a tiger. It was pretty spooky driving in the night. Lone car in a forested area with barely any traffic. If you really want to see animals, you have to stop at particular spots and wait patiently. With two small kids in the car, dead of night, hoping we wouldn't bust a tire or get waylaid by bandits or whatever, there was no chance of that happening. With a two or three car convoy I would say it's a must do. If not for anything, just a sense of adventure. This time again we just saw deer.

To be fair, as you approach the forest area there's a big yellow signboard with the disclaimer ``Tigers are one of the many animals in the reserve''. They're basically warning you that you're not likely to see one so be happy with the birds and the prey.

I hope to get lucky somewhere else sometime. Still, I'll keep going back to Corbett to stay at the Riverside for the sheer pleasure of the idyllic place.